It is a festive mood season dominated by bright tones for the young gen-g market as, spotted in Anna Sui, Collina Strada, Brandon Maxwell's show where vivid tones of red and orange dominated the runway.

Bronze is one of the Season's most dominating tones as detected in Gabriela Hearst, Altuzarra, and Adam Lippe's show accompanying few Pastel hues of Pink, green, silver-gray, and yellow.

Key Theme- The Feel at Home

Key Details- A long button shirt collar coat belted at the waist paired with a marigold shirt, black cigarette pants with a burgundy sailor coat long sleeve blouse light beige flat front pants are some of the key details from Tory Burch's show. Cotton shirt cropped jacket, a duo fabric jersey, Madras long skirt, and a burgundy puffy short sleeves top make the overall direction of the season.

Color directions- burgundy, Ecru, oak, Marigold, and brass

Print- Plaid Madras print, Optical illusion check Print, 

The opening looks – a white cotton shirt cropped jacket, a duo fabric jersey, Madras long skirt, and a burgundy puffy short sleeves top and ecru pants – set the tone for this no-nonsense collection. 

While presenting Spring-summer 2022 collection at New york Tory explains her collection as empowering women's life, freedom in clothing choices, and self-expression as a key direction of the season.

Tory Burch's collection converges on women empowerment, she discards rules of what women should wear instead of problem-solving for the reality of their lives. 

Her designs infuse a sense of liberty, promoting self-expression, and empowered women with a casual elegance that is important today as it was in the late 1940s,” Burch said about McCardell, who provided new ways of dressing for women in the rapidly changing post-war era.

The at home feel approach is intentional to drive immersive experiences at the store for the younger consumers yearning to spend time at brick and mortars retail spaces and decorated in tones of oak and brass, Burch hand-picked the furnishings – tables, pottery, ceramic, and art pieces – in the arts and craft style for the collection presentation outside her store in New York.

The artist Miranda Brooks made a garden space just behind the store for that outdoor feel, reflecting the vast greenery of Valley Forge, PA, where the designer grew up. 

The concept is to have a feel of a Sunday local market in the neighborhood with families get together and enjoying the different offerings made from scratch by hands.

Burch brought home the products she is known for, namely streamlined no-nonsense clothes and functional accessories like her best-selling ballet slippers or the new Lampshade bucket bag as an inverse of the 1950s inspired lampshade hat. 

The application is on how these different clothes can be worn together or combined with others in women’s daily lives across all ages that are the brand’s consumer base. The clothes mixed the idea of versatility and function. 

A long ecru button shirt collar coat belted at the waist paired with a marigold shirt, or one can easily wear black cigarette pants with a burgundy sailor coat long sleeve blouse light beige flat front pants. 

The primary silhouette spotted is a lean straight line of a blue knit elbow sleeve t-shirt with a high waist blue and white checker print long pleat skirt. 

Plaid Madras print mixes with red cotton in one long dress offers the contrast of color and texture, so the fluid brown and light yellow color block jersey blouse over Fuschia pajama pants. 

Key Theme- hippie daydream, Free Love and Sunshine

Key Details

New and Noteworthy

Anna Sui seems ready for summer travel: the endlessly whimsical designer’s Spring 2022 collection was an ode to free love and sunshine, a hippie daydream seen through the lends of contemporary wanderlust, executed with precision and imagination.

The tone was decisively set from the first bright pink look that came down the runway as if blown in on a floral-scented island breeze: crocheted bikini, surf shirt, straw hat worn at a jovially jaunty angle.

The groovy 70’s vibes didn’t end with the knit bikinis; we saw plenty of wrap, calico, and shift dresses, jackets with oversize collars, and some wonderful high-waisted wide-leg pants, all executed with colorful flower-power prints.

While as a whole the looks are at once eye-popping and easy on the eyes, the details here are worth scrutinizing as well. As always from Anna Sui, the prints and lace patterns are made with lots of love, but the designer seemed especially meticulous and joyful with this season’s return to in-person shows and spring travel.

Her process often involves researching design and illustration styles from specific eras and cultural scenes, and the resulting graphics this time around, including a fun logo for a surf shop or smoothie bar named “Sweet,” feel totally on point and immersive.

The handcrafted Perler-bead jewelry and belts felt so inventive, playful, and of course era-appropriate. Knit flowers blossomed.

Impressively, the designer managed to avoid falling into cheesiness or kitsch. Attention to detail helped in this respect as well, but by lending contemporary touches to the looks. This season once again sees Anna embrace her love of Tevas through a collaboration with the trendy sandal brand.

Socks with sandals seem here to stay, but once again, they made a lot of sense with the looks – in fact, the colorfully printed socks seem to, amazingly, tie the looks together. Other smart contemporary details include water-bottle holsters and one prairie dress’ gorgeous execution in a fine sheer fabric.

Key Theme- New world- ready to party

Key Items- Mini coats, sweaters, Trench gleamed tuxedos.

Key Prints: Gingham, psychedelic, and optical illusion checks.

New and Noteworthy:- Mushroom Print

A “psychedelic” print mini dress with a shiny gingham mini coat and a sweater thrown over the shoulders – is any indication of Brandon Maxwell doing Brandon Maxwell, then we’re fully supportive. 

For Spring 2022, Maxwell pushed things even further, adding lots of shine and some mind-bending prints to his collection.

The overall direction at the Maxwell collection is glamorous, a ready-to-party look while few appearances had fluid skirts and dresses. Short Jackets and trench coats appeared in soft glossy leather finishes while few were seen in polyester materials.

There was a pleated lamé swooshed as models walked, micro feathered skirts peaked out under long sweaters, a shiny alligator-embossed teal trench gleamed, tuxedos were worn with bra tops, and almost every print made you look twice. 

There was a mushroom print! One that was zebra or was is it just swirling black and white lines? Each look was a reminder that once upon a time we used to go out and that we will go out again preferably in time for Spring 2022. 

Many of the looks at the show are layered, a few sweaters tied over the shoulders, and it should be noted that Maxwell styled the collection himself with his in-house team, “and lots of palo santo.” 

Key Theme- Outdoor Oasis, Sartorial Romanticism, and Women Empowerment

Key Details- A three pieces skirt suit with a strapless bandeau in place of a traditional blouse or mock neck fitted knit. There are the separates garments showing off the midriff. A silver embroidered bandeau under a white tuxedo with crystal lapels

Prints- Gingham

Color- dark camel, Soft Pink, Black

Spring 2022 season with the sartorial language spoken and actual clothes to be worn by the set of young set women entering the luxury fashion sphere. 

“I think we’re all ready to focus on the simple, powerful pleasures of love – romantic love, love for one another, love for the places that sustain us, which in my case is New York City. It’s a special thrill to celebrate the resilience and rebirth of the city and the fashion industry with a live runway show. 

The S/S 2022 collection pays tribute to everything about spring in New York City, The energy, the mix of people, the romance and laid-back glamour,” 

Michael Kors presented the collection of his show inside the Terrace at Tavern in the Green in the middle of Central Park, an iconic place at the heart of the city. 

 The Terrace was transformed into a lush outdoor garden with planted roses and spreads of overgrown vines. Guests were treated to Chuck’s Famous Brownies, a specialty of the God’s Love We Deliver charity organization that helped feed AIDS patients/families since 1981.

Then the actress Ariana DeBose – original Hamilton cast and upcoming Steven Spielberg adaptation of the musical West Side Story – performed a musical set before the supermodels paraded the new collection. DeBose sang jazzy ballads from Niina Simone and Nat Cole-King and ‘Somewhere’ from the Broadway version of West Side Story.

The collection at Kors is overtly sexy, dresses appeared with high-thigh slits. A black leather slashed sheath, a black viscose backless bodysuit, a tulle circle skirt with side slit showing the floral paillette embroidery underneath, or the black and brown bonded lace sheath dress with a slit high enough to reveal practically the entirety of the model’s right leg. 

The collection has separates, garments showing off the midriff. A silver embroidered bandeau under a white tuxedo with crystal lapels, a black and white gingham stretch viscose cropped pullover and matching brief, or a camel cashmere jacket, short tank, and mini skirt. A three pieces skirt suit with a strapless bandeau in place of a traditional blouse or mock neck fitted knit. 

The tailoring appears in easy and slouchy shapes, not many structures. That meant straight single breast light pink jacket skirt suit or long tailored floral cotton eyelet coat. 

The dark camel double crepe blazer, vest, and trouser is a menswear take on the classic pantsuit. Then there is the range of Kors dresses from strappy knee-length dresses to fitted sheaths. 

A camel lace paillette embroidered tank and matching flora lace skirt could have been a sheath dress now cut into two separate items to show off the summer tan. 

Key Theme- Human and Nature,

Key Details- fitted tops, button-ups, pants, and skirts in silk and technical fabric

Color-  lavender, green, and blue,

This art of noticing and communal cohabitation was on the mind of Private Policy creative directors Siyin Qu and Haoran Li as they worked on their Spring 2022 collection, which considers how humans and plants coexist within industrial cityscapes.

This season we wanted to look at how plants work in urban settings: how we as humans interact with them in this ultra-industrial concrete jungle.

We see how therapeutic it is to have plants in one’s apartment, to how amazingly plants can bring a community together when you grow a little garden; it’s so precious however small it is. When we look to the future, we will see more of things like vertical gardens that don’t require much soil. All of these considerations make us think how beautiful it is to incorporate plants into an urban lifestyle.

–Siying Qu, Private Policy Creative Director

The aspect of the urban and industrial, a Private Policy staple, was certainly present in the goth-club-ready harnesses, bralettes, and hoodies paired with strapped-up pants, the metallic hardware of which also appeared across bomber jackets and handbags.

Some of these pants are deconstructed with sheer panels crafted from upcycled polyester, which is also used to create dresses, tops, and shirts.

Private Policy’s signature angled checker pattern made a return across fitted tops, button-ups, pants, and skirts in silk and technical fabric, sometimes interwoven with monochrome flower prints. Other than the calm infusions of color in lavender, green, and blue, these few literal images of plant life were really the only signifiers of the plant concept we got – until the last three looks.

The final three looks were somewhat literal as well, but definite showstoppers. They also wholly embodied the conceptual spirit behind the collection: beaded chains were formed into a net woven with sculpted flowers, which hung over the models’ otherwise bare torsos.

The flowers were made with upcycled plastic bottles which were candle-melted into their shape – a beautiful way to transform industrial waste into something that speaks to the beauty of nature.

Theme- Grunge, Freedom and Skateboarding

Key Looks- grunge-prep-seventies-denim “streetwear” looks

Key Prints-Tartans, Dogtooth

Judging from the looks Coach’s creative director Stuart Vevers sent out on the runway (if you can call a big wide open space a runway), Coach is banking on Spring 2022 being cold and rainy.

One got the feeling that the wool tartans in the form of ponchos, knee-length skirts and gathered blanket skirts, and the whole array of raincoats and leather jackets presented were a direct challenge to global warming.

Even if these coats were mostly styled open with nothing underneath but a bra (women) or bare chest (men), even if they mostly came in cartoonish pinks, greens, purples and blues, the spring vibe seemed distant.

It is a direct indication that Coach targetted a much younger audience both by presenting this video and by the grunge-prep-seventies-denim “streetwear” looks shown this season. There was a Perry Ellis by Marc Jacobs vibe, especially with all the “vintage-y” t-shirts and low-slung waistlines, but it felt a little late. 

Coach may be shifting their main client to be the Tik-Tok generation desperate for their “30 minutes of fame” (as the video referenced at one point), but it might have been wise to include a few ensembles that looked less like they were yanked from the backs of skateboarders and more like something people over the age of sixteen might aspire to. Isn’t that was this brand is about? Aspiring towards a beautifully made handbag? To own a little piece of luxury?