New york fashion week AW 2022 Trends - A critical analysis
AW 2022 New York Fashion Week brings contrast, disorder, and conflicting approaches to design development. At one point, a considerable number of designer themes were about positivity and sanguinity, but dominant earthy color choices didn't justify the motives.
While we were expecting the Autumn winter 2022 items will be delightful, bright, and have a lot of glamour, the overall color rolled around to swarthy and muted tones.
Compared to the London and Milan AW 2022 fashion week, the New York runway missed the opportunity to promote the consumer's appetite for well-being in design, aesthetics, and overall design direction.
Most of the colors dominated at the AW 22 season are dusty and brown shades that emerged in the Coach, Tiffany Brown, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Brandon Maxwell, and black as the prevailing hue in Christian Siriano, and Helmut Lang collection.
Many designers this AW 2022, isn’t interested in the at-home, cozy dresses instead they are putting traditional oversized maxi dresses. American designers are making sure their buyers forget about the past and get normal after the last two disastrous years. However, we were expecting highly a youthful style attitude. What we see a long dresses, couture kind of intricate dresses and lack of streetwear influences.
The important trend observed in New York, designers are feeling a sense of national pride. We’ve had Coach relaying coming of age of middle America; Brandon Maxwell feeling nostalgic of his Texan upbringing; and Christian Cowan illustrating Manhattan's nights out.
Based on our 2022/23 consumer behavior research and forecasts, buyers aspire the happiness in everything they buy. Well-being and spiritual pleasure will be the key to the brand's success in the forthcoming seasons.
Covid has impacted our sexual desires. Breakups, Divorces, and lost sexual desires propelled the desire to reveal skins and little more glamour. These motivations might have pushed the recent cutout trends we first observed in S/S 2022 season.
Overall, at the New York fashion week NEW YORK FASHION WEEK DATE , we witnessed the gypsy, sexuality, erotic, and 90's grunge theme among the top trending style direction. Especially in Coach, Tory Burch, and Ulla Johnson's runway show, we noticed the continuation and slight updates in the previous S/S 2022 seasons' hippy dress and overall style.
Bra top by Herve Leger, and Private Policy, 3.1 Phillip Lim,
Waist band cloth- Proenza-schouler,
Designers to focus - Hardware LDN, Helmut Lang, Herve Leger, PH5,
Key Trending color- Dahila Purple
Key AW 2022 Trending color: Pantone- Roasted Russete
Key AW 2022 Trending color- Pantone Salsa
Key Items-- Cocooning camel coats, 80’s leotards, cut-out knitted dresses, and cashmere jackets.
Themes – Optimism
In Michael Kors's New York fashion week NEW YORK FASHION WEEK DATE show it was all about optimism and getting ready to bring things normal
This tight, solid-colored color palette defined the show, which was as cool as it was commercial, Kors striking the perfect balance between the two.
Girls moved from day to evening in cocooning camel coats, 80’s leotards, cut-out knitted dresses, and cashmere jackets, falling off the shoulder just so.
Kors, unlike many designers who have presented evening styles, believing it will be a popular choice, adds ease and comfort to looks glamorously by bringing a few sequined evening dresses and tops.
Coats were a stand-out throughout the catwalk. In this chilly New York climate, you can see why many designers make this category essential for the season. We see several pieces lifted in the high street stores, which is part of the parcel of putting forth such everyday, translatable designs on the runway.
Key Items-- tailored trousers, drop-shoulder overcoats, obi-leather belting
Burch explored the concept of the New York identity via style, color, form, and geometry, with classic American sportswear being the key direction as seen during the show.
The designer balanced authentic American aesthetics with contemporaneous taste and social context.
This girl wants to wear her damn sweats but throw a little sass into the mix. There was newfound creativity in her work that elevated her collection. Print, namely, came layered up against tailored trousers, feeling a little Prada-esque if you will.
Relaxed handwriting informed the curved silhouettes of blazers, bombers, drop-shoulder overcoats, and even the ovoid line of trousers and tops nipped in at the waist with obi-leather belting which enhanced looks with a feminine structure. The easy lines lent well for layering.
Overall, we can define Burch collection was a mix of sporty and classic sartorial attitude.
Key Items-- oversized baggy tees with cartoon prints, giant leather jackets
Themes- American scene, nostalgic, upbeat, optimistic
Like for the S/S 2022 collection, the Coach yet again continues the signature 90's oversized t-shirts and baggy shorts targeted to youth and dominating street consumer attitudes.
Honestly, that was against the existing offering at the catwalk, the Coach knew his buyers are seeking adventure and youthfulness than the sophistication and matured look of evening wear is better than the competitors.
Designer Stefan Beckham smeared a typically American scene: picket fences, children playing on their bicycles, a housewife walking her pet dog.
Like many small towns in America, everything was not as it seemed. As the sunset on the picturesque neighborhood of ‘Coachville’ USA, the youth emerged from the cracks, climbing out of their bedroom windows and onto the runway one by one, in clothes made for mischief that explored the many decades of Coach’s heritage.
There were the ’50s, in sweet A-line style dresses and car coats with painterly florals and giant houndstooth checks, paired with T-bar shoes and square frame sunnies. Giant, cozy shearling jackets were re-imagined in oversize proportions, distinguished with corduroy flares and barely there bralettes.
There was a certain satire amongst a series of 40’s dolly-like crochet and floral appliqué dresses juxtaposed with leather chokers, baseball caps, and stomping biker boots.
Perhaps these girls were off for a night at ‘The Coach,’ the local neighborhood bar whose logo features a giant bear in a leather harness. The boys were definitely en route; clad in three-piece leathers and DIY jewelry, a knowing glimmer in their eye, off to ‘write a new love story,’ as the show notes put it – perhaps more delicately than I could!
Elsewhere, the 90’s called in oversized baggy tees with cartoon prints, served up with giant leather jackets laden with graffiti. You can imagine these kids in their bedrooms and backyards, DIYing a thrifted jacket and making their own jewelry out of trinkets from a yard sale.
It was nostalgic, upbeat, optimistic, and endearing. Coach champions this kind of sentiment and creativity: today, their foundation donated to Free Arts NYC, which empowers underserved youths through arts and mentoring programs to develop their creativity and confidence.
They know that their customers want exclusive products and want them quickly (a limited edition number of archival 1964 model bags were made available post-show).
That’s what made this collection more than just a throwback or a nod to retro tropes that can often veer out of touch with today.
Key Items-- long coats, fur-lined jackets, cropped sailor knits and floor sweeping skirts,
Themes- Mystery and Darkness, Hippy, Bohemé, Gypsette
the central theme of the show was pinned on that very narrative. “I want this collection to not only evoke the intrepid and adventurous spirit, but also mystery and darkness,” said the designer of his latest outing, which was as sizable as it was varied, featuring looks that spanned everything from heavy winter coats to crochet dresses and crop tops.
The collection began its journey in deepest winter, layered up to the nines with long coats, fur-lined jackets, cropped sailor knits and floor sweeping skirts, decorated with dancing gypsette belts for the brand’s bohemé spin.
These moved from true bohemian handkerchief styles, abundant with tie-dye and laden with embroidery, whipstitching and sea-traveler’s treasures, to a beautiful pleated leather tunic that appeared to fold around the body like origami.
Two-piece knits were a welcome introduction throughout; when the journey’s over, those pieces will look just as well thrown together with jeans or sweatpants – a surefire sign of more everyday items entering the designer’s vernacular.
Key Items-- Tent-shaped frock, fluffy Black and white sweater, high ruffled neckline
Prints—folkloric, African abstract prints
There’s a comfort and an excitement to seasonality with Johnson’s collection, there’s no doubt you’re looking at fall.
A collared duster coat in shades of black, white, and yellow. A yellow printed “Heidi” dress, a rich tent-shaped frock with great ballooning sleeves and high ruffled neckline, were feminine and nostalgic.
Autumnal hues of russet, aged yellows, shades of brown and black and white prints telegraph the time of year. And while many a look could do double duty, there’s no denying this bonus that the clothes offer.
Long sleeve jackets paired with skirts with long tablecloth hems, an adorable fluffy Black and white sweater were two standouts as were the many patterned jackets layered over contrast- printed dresses or skirts.
Print had a folkloric theme or sometimes they combined a Seventies vibe with African abstract prints.
Johnson’s pleasing pattern mixes and her flair for the bohemian are notable. Pieces are thoughtfully designed and Johnson’s imagination skillfully combines fun and sophistication in equal measure.
Jason Wu Collection
Key Items-- mini dresses and grand frocks, voluminous skirts.
Key Prints—Tie and Dye
Compared to the previous season, it was a glamorous take by Wu, a different style that we used to witness from him. There was a big bow tie, voluminous hem dresses, skirts, and erotic corset bra top completed the collection.
According to the designer, “They want glamour,” The more glamour, the better. Wu did with styles that shimmered with excitement and whimsy.
Among the favorites were a sweeping magenta dress, a chic little belted skirt suit, and a mustard yellow strapless look with a high-low hem and a supersized bow In fact, it was hard to look at the gigantic bows Wu placed on bodices, and not smile.
Volume in pert mini dresses and grand frocks conveyed the spirit of splendor he was after.
Wu’s been thinking plants and vintage magazines.
Though less patterned than some past collections, flowers were no less significant. Lush shades of cerise pink, yellow, and orange were taken from the unusual coloring of poppies displayed as part of the runway backdrop.
There were dresses in these hues, but sometimes it was just a killer shoe – a pump in an extraordinary tangerine like the poppies cascading on the blossoming white vines on display.