F-trend picks Top 7 designers S/S2021 collection from Milan fashion week
The styles at Milan looked elevated and mood uplifting yet ultimately easy to wear, light and street casual, we are finding various brands are moving in a mildly feminine direction. That’s not to say overly simplistic, rather it looked like that there’s been a collective thought of what during the pandemic consumers might really would like to buy?
We have seen numerous elevated separates, neutral hues with flashes of color to lift the overall outfit, as well as quirky and dramatic rainbow and floral prints with bright pops of color that provide a sense of escapism. Designers loved the artwork during the lockdown and reflected it into their collection.
Digitally, international buyers appreciated the mood of restart and the optimism that most of the designers unveiling their collections in Milan injected into their lineups.
Rebirth, reconstruction and renaissance
We saw Prada starting a new chapter following Raf Simons co-designing the label. The Prada digital show and the Q&A with Miuccia Prada and Simons that followed the virtual runway event emerged as the fashion week’s milestone, along with the emotional Fendi and Valentino physical shows.
The Prada show lived up to the anticipation as the pair maximized the house design codes, distorting scale, playing with graphics, and redefining the proportion.
A return to a certain refined, more classic femininity, conveyed through fluid dresses, bra tops, full skirts, floral prints and kitten heels, was praised by buyers, who also appreciated the elongated, softly constructed suits and the extensive use of vibrant colors. The Prada essential shapes, were nylon and the new security wrap stood out.
Valentino had a standout collection exemplifying the ease and understatement we’re craving. Pierpaolo made us believe even a simple oversized poplin shirt worn out is needed and desirable.
Max Mara’s neutral and calm utilitarian and modern collection hits the mark, too. Max Mara’s Ian Griffiths echoed this same theme when he summarized his show with three words — “‘rebirth, reconstruction and renaissance,’” said Arielle Siboni, women’s ready to wear fashion director at Bloomingdale’s. “Across the board, Milan Fashion Week gave us a glimpse into the future of a post-pandemic world, where clothes are simple, powerful and classic.”
We could almost feel the lightness of air and a fresh direction through our screens from Fendi with its extra fresh white linens and layers of shadow print silks floating over the body.
Fendi’s light and romantic collection offered some of the memorable pieces that ranged from the sheer linen match sets to the duvet-like puffer coats, this collection made boudoir dressing appropriate for day.
For the first time under Pierpaolo Piccioli’s creative direction, Valentino presented its collection in Milan and it consisted of beautiful lace blouses and bold summer hues. It was refreshing to see a lot of these fluid and romantic tops paired back to denim and the perfect summer sandal.
Sportmax Creative Director Grazia Malagoli, blending the eyes of today with the minimal codes of the waif 90s the collection was a mash-up of sexiness, clean street chic, and casual cool.
Certainly it had its references from Helmut Lang to Calvin Klein to Daryl Kerrigan, but never-mind all that.
The collection (Sportmax) rocked and made us long for the freedom of the 90s when cool was simply cool and no-one ever thought about checking their feed or wanted a ‘like.’
Key Items and Trends
In terms of ready-to-wear there was lots of all white, white lace and romanticism, as well as touches of fringe and red.
For footwear, the key trends were gladiator shoes and lots of flats, clean and minimal flats or kitten heels.
Tailoring for the spring summer 2021 collection was designed to be languid and fluid. Top trends included long and lean tailored separates, knit dressing, fluid dresses, graphic and vibrant prints including floral, patchwork and tropical prints. We also saw glam lounge, sport luxe, full skirts, bra tops, denim, woven market totes, and chunky platforms.
Versace took a strong step forward with their diverse and inclusive cast. We loved the Versace’s ultra-mini short suits, which felt reminiscent of mid-Nineties, “Clueless”-inspired dressing.
Max Mara offered an array of relaxed suiting and, balloon-sleeved coat, bonded raincoat that is going to be very trend setting for the next season.
Lingerie-inspired pieces such as the bra top continue to be an emerging hero piece of the season, as seen styled with shrunken cardigans at Versace, and under suiting at Etro. The newly envisioned oversize rock studs in Valentino’s shoes and bags.
Fendi had a stellar lineup of accessories and shoes. The leather woven market tote, as well as raffia baguettes and totes, soft crochet bags. are favorites for the season.
The “new uniform,” featuring precision tailoring in soft knits and crisp shirting paired with utilitarian skirts and pants with pocket detail.
The embroidered linen covered mini bags at Fendi and the new oversize Rockstud flats at Valentino, as well as the amazing collaboration they did with Levi’s.
Here are Top 7 picks from F-trend from Milan fashion shows of Spring 2021 season as selected by our team
Prada- Femininty and fluidity
The key highlight from the Prada's show was the use of Nylon that is gradually setting new trend at the store's already. Prada’s iconic printed hoodie and the Re-Nylon white bags.
At Prada Fifties-style pleated silhouette is sure to be a foundation piece for Prada S/S 2021 collection,. along with the ladylike footwear and handbags were a collection highlight. Also, not to miss The Prada single-logo earrings are definitive front-runners.
Fendi: Light and Romantic
Fendi’s light and romantic collection offered some of the dreamiest pieces. From the sheer linen match sets to the duvet-like puffer coats, this collection made boudoir dressing appropriate for day. Fendi had a stellar lineup of accessories and shoes. The leather woven market tote, as well as raffia baguettes and totes, are favorites for the season.
Fendi’s soft crochet bags., The embroidered linen covered mini bags at Fendi
Max Mara’s balloon-sleeved coat, And Max Mara offered an array of relaxed suiting that is going to be very important next season. Max Mara’s neutral and calm utilitarian and modern collection hits the mark, too
Designer injected a utilitarian details into the collection through bomber jackets and laser-cut raincoats, parkas with big pockets, while roomy, jersey pants with drawstrings added a luxury jogging suits worn out during the lockdown.
Pantsuits appeared in yellow pink, cobalt blue and in black pinstripes were engaging and looked to set for a renaissance.
Sportmax collection could be redefined as 90's minimalism under the present doubtful future to face the reality and reflect the uncertainty.
The dresses were made from scraps of leather and silk draped around the body, while their cool maxi totes seemed cobbled from trash bags.
Sportmax also had a nylon raincoat billowed like a parachute, and a maxi trench was intentionally cut too big as if rescued from a man’s wardrobe. Clinging tie-dye tops were matched with wrap skirts with an artisanal, unfinished look, and Nineties tailoring was given a rebellious vibe.
We also spotted metallic jewelry including piercing-inspired chokers and arm rings, felt like the amulets of this new tribe of women.
Versace- Lingerie inspired
We loved Versace’s ultra-mini short suits, which felt reminiscent of mid-Nineties, “Clueless”-inspired dressing. Lingerie-inspired pieces such as the bra top continue to surface as a key piece of the season, as seen styled with shrunken cardigans at Versace, and under suiting at Etro.
The collections were highly versatile and maximalism was the key theme of the season's collection. There were a lot of fluid dresses, use of lace for the shirts and dresses, biker T-shirt, or on sheer blouses paired with denim jeans revisiting the 517 boot-cut model from 1969 — one he used to wear — in a collaboration with Levi’s.
The overall style direction by Piccioli at the Valentino it was feminine and fluid look, Big flowers, lace, and ruches. He described romanticism as “Individualism, freedom of expression, diversity. This romanticism is not about being pretty but it’s an approach to life, it’s individual, emotional, and not objective.”
Shi.rt- playful ruffles
Designer at shi.RT, the focus was to create beautiful decorating the lineup with plenty of ruches, ruffles, patchwork patterns, embroideries and embellishments.
We spotted Beautiful shirts inspired by the Victorian poetic looks, such as a white bib look with delicate bows, or an azure one with a flurry of petals embroidered on the front. We loved the mini ruffle skirts and dresses which looked truely brilliant.