Adeam: S/S 2020 New York

Several times throughout the show, a piece was shown more than once — for example, a navy chunky knit with a white stripe on the sleeve and flap collar that had a detachable shoulder detail. Once it was shown with the sleeves buttoned up, and then later on in a sandy colorway with the sleeves unbuttoned, forming a new shape. The variations permutated the silhouette, giving her customer convertibility, another theme she often riffs on.

A blue-and-white shirtdress that was deconstructed and remixed with cascading ruffles was an excellent example of the maritime theme, and double-breasted details that you would find on a navy peacoat ended up on dresses and suiting.

As the show progressed, the designer moved on to several cocktail and evening frocks. One floor-length gown had an almost transparent layer of tulle at the neck with crystals that glistened like drops of water fresh from a dip in the ocean, while another had a delicate raw pearl trim; each one was a riff on her oceanic theme. It was a fitting end to a chic, modern and sleek collection.