Romanticism and structural minimalism: New York AW18 fashion week trend
For the Autumn WInter 2018 season of the New York fashion week has seen a new sense of romanticism as the feminism starts leading the designer's world. Globally the definition of feminism is changing and it is now more about being the woman first and to accept the reality rather than competing against men. Tory Burch for her AW18 collection went for the romantic route which embraces for the modern feminism with the flavor of poetic style. It provided a grand yet ethereal venue for the collection Burch called “femininity in overdrive.”
Ruffles, frills, plissé, and fluidity dominated the runway as the ace designers Coach, Tibi, Jason Wu, and BCBG Max Azria.
The structural crafted silhouettes with minimalistic prints are one of the other popular found trend credited to the evolving perfectionist attitude among the consumers. Zac Posen's architectural, Victoria Beckham, Narciso Rodriguez crisp fine silhouettes are the key trends.
Plaids continue to dominate runway from men to women's collection for the Autumn winter 2018 collection at all the runway destinations. Plaids are leading in Trousers, blazer, suits, and trench coats since from Spring summer 18 runway season. Fair Isle pattern is seen in Coach and Michael Kors sweaters.
The season the key attitude designer tried to bring was a cool relaxation and the sharp edge sliced in symmetry. One of the best looks was from the Victoria Beckham's collection- a forest green knit hoodie over a languid brown skirt with a fan of accordion pleats accented by a gigantic purple felted bag. It was casual but still dressed up, and most definitely not athleisure.
Michael Kors brings grunge plaids and slip dresses, a “Jackie Onassis at Doubleday” camel leather trench, and boyish pairings of Argyle, plaid or Fair Isle and pajama silk. A Margot Tenenbaum tracksuit walked the runway and also appeared in the front row on a luminous Zendaya
The Coach's New York Autumn winter 18 fashion week welcomes the distinctive stand-alone power dresses that were evident right out of the gate.The opening look brought all the craftsmanship of the popular Coach leather jackets—tassels, braiding, silver charms—to the idea of the evening.
The long-sleeved, high-neck silhouette was modest, there were a translucent allure and lightness to the dresses that felt fresh. The winter floral prints and paisley scarf patterns were a feminine transformation to the brand’s wide range of streetwise outerwear. The other styles were a shimmering passage of lamé pleated dresses that offered a sophisticated alternative to the traditional sequined party number.
Jason Wu opted for a gentler interpretation, drawing from the architects’ often-rich palettes while keeping his silhouettes linear but languid. Wide cropped silk T and skirt combinations, one in red, one in brown, bared discreet wedges of skin at the waist; a shimmering bottle-green pajama top was extended to mid-calf over matching pants.
Jason Wu worked with silk plissé and raw edging that gave the clothes an artful vibe that was decorated by the embroideries — random dapples of big, bold crystals. He employed these with egalitarian fervor on pieces as diverse as a meaty sweater over a wrapped plaid skirt and a sheer black skirt under a belted jacket. Even the tailoring style at the show had a relaxed attitude, in large part because of Wu’s choice of fabrics.
Prabal brings the Great artisanal craftsmanship with the flavor of lightweight asymmetric skirts featuring draped sarong overlays and more linear styles jazzed up by allover sequined and beaded patterns were matched with covetable cozy sweaters combining different techniques, including cable knitting, jacquard, and needle punching. They were worked in delicate tonal scales of pink and blue, which contrasted with the bright red hue of a chic knitted turtleneck dress embellished with a cloud of feathers.
Mongolian shearling was paired with quilted wool twill on an elongated vest that combined a functional look with extreme sophistication. The same attitude was infused in an elevated windbreaker matching sport-inspired color-blocking with an exquisite feather decoration.
A traditional khaki trench had the fluorescent spray paint signals found on unfinished raw floors. Classic quilting came on a navy blazer belted over matching pants while sweatshirts were stylishly tied around the shoulders, preppy-meets-street-style, of a white, netted dress and a brown furry bomber.
The silhouettes spotted at the show were cut to reflect modernist modesty — big, bright sweaters over straight skirts and knee-high boots; fluid jersey midi dresses with long sleeves and oversize suits.
The color palette was designed to pop, red coats, pink dresses, and cobalt blue shoes looked amazing
Beckham has a lot to offer in the world of modest, minimalist based clothes with the perfectionism in attitude.
The rustic, sort of English flavor of slate and mossy tailored coats with big belts that opened the show befitted Beckham’s British background. Stirrup pants and strangely appealing square-toe flats bisected by a long strap that jutted out over the arch of the foot formed the foundation of a strong coat story that continued throughout the 25-look lineup.
Nothing was casual, but there was a cool relaxation to the attitude. One of the best looks was a forest green knit hoodie over a languid brown skirt with a fan of accordion pleats accented by a gigantic purple felted bag. It was casual but still dressed up, and most definitely not athleisure.
Burch went the romantic route, with a waft of boho. Inspired by Pina Bausch’s Nelken, she installed a garden of pink carnations sprouting tall from imperfect, mossy grass beneath the soaring, tiled arches of a breathtaking vacant space near the 59th Street Bridge. It provided a grand yet ethereal venue for the collection Burch called “femininity in overdrive.”
There were ruffles, frills and the occasional poetic nightshirt extended into an alluring dress. Yet it never turned coy, due to manageable proportions and savvy styling that tempered the romance with a sportif spin: argyle sweater over floral skirt; crisp cropped jeans under a pristine white shirtdress, its ruffled collar, and placket outlined in black.
There were moments when Burch pulled back, even more, indulging her girl’s tomboy side: suede bomber over spiffy stretch wool skirt; terrific suede trench. And in the spirit of practical chic, she offered a host of inviting parkas, including one fleece-lined beauty worn over a long shearling coat.
Eyes traced in the dramatic black liner, posing in grand silk faille gowns with elaborate architectural toppers, as well as tidy retro suits and crisp white shirting, she looked like a movie star who is not just like us. “We wanted to play with the idea of very classic architectural seaming but then adding the drama and eccentricity as a revealing piece with a jacket,” said Posen of curvaceous jewel-toned mermaid gowns worn under voluminous sculptural jackets that cast a striking,