Paris Fashion week S/S 2022 Trend insight: we want to be free
The Paris spring summer 2022 show tries to develop a new men's fashion attitude by the designers. As Today life is constrained, we are in fear and, free will does not exist it, is a time to originate the lost confidence in society. The designer's collection on the runway evokes freedom, lost sexuality, and rejoices in the outdoor lifestyle.
Key details- Pockets get big on shirts, jackets, and trousers seen in DVN, Paul Smith, Burberry, and a few other designer's collections. The shirts and T-shirts presented are relaxed and, few looks came in the oversized, lightweight fabric while there was a dramatic layering detail seen in DVN.
The most dominating note by the designer Burberry, Hermes, and Dries Van Noten's key message of the season is to go outside and relish the free spirit. of the design development is to get yourself free, go in the park, beaches and, grass fields in relaxed flowy silhouettes, relaxed, lightweight, breathable fabrics. Also, few styles were in the 70's vibe seen in Alled Martinez Collections.
Lemaire modifies trousers and jeans into relaxed 3/4 length to celebrate freedom and movement in lightweight slouchy silhouettes.
Most Popular style- Men sweater vest, double breast shirt, and coat pockets.
Noteworthy Items- fishnet top by Rick Owens and Valette Studio.
Fluid oversized shirt
The biggest trend of the Paris Spring Summer 2022 trend Layering brings seasons new style direction that is expected to gain popularity. The style was witnessed in men top and shirt category in Kolor, Dior and Burberry's show.
Dior Spring 2022
Key Trend direction:- Layers t-shirts, artistic paint prints, slim cigarette pants with flare, Vest Knits, Fluid lightweight long shirts, Embroidery work, Powder pink, Acid green, graphic sweaters with words written on the sleeves ‘If you can read this I must love you to let you this close’ in white capital letters knitted into the jumper.
Noteworthy new item- Fringed sweater
In this spring collection, there are plenty of clothes specifically made for these young men. Dior show lured the gen Z youth market through more sporty looks and slogan knits. There we see graphic sweaters with words written on the sleeves ‘If you can read this I must love you to let you this close’ in white capital letters knitted into the jumper.
Dior collection is an outcome of a collaboration with some of the finest visual artists from Peter Doig to Raymond Pettibon and Daniel Arsham. Within that context, the collection featured another collaboration in the form of a series of shirts hand-painted by artist George Condo.
These words and these graphics woven on these knits – a short sleeve green floral with a green shirt and flared pants or a light coffee t-shirt imprinted with two heads over a coffee shirt and flare pants – are a result of the dialogue exchanged over the past few months between Jones and Scott.
The Dior blue logo transforms into abstract letterings as an ecru sleeveless knit worn with black wool pants and a waist belt Saddle Bag with white leather pattern stitching.
There are many sporty clothes in this collection, tailoring remains the spirit of Dior Men. The attempt to bring sophisticated tailoring to the young generation so thoroughly entrenched in the SNS ethos is not an easy task but one that this show provides clarity.
The tailoring direction is super soft shapes – light shoulder, narrow armhole – guided by Dior’s 1956 ‘Arrow’ line. The emphasis is on a more flat and crisp straight-line form that has evolved into lightweight flowing gabardine wool Oblique jackets with side buttoning closure and a curve jacket center front that makes the jacket still feel a single rather than a tight cross body double breast.
The slim cigarette pants with flare from below the knee render a break from this very linear but relaxed cut.
This new shape of these pantsuits shown in acid green, pink, coffee, or ecru light fabrics of wools, silk wools, and silk jacquards allow for more excellent movements to overcome the rigidity that young people view suiting.
Plenty of sports looks await those more averse to pantsuits or coat suits. A brown varsity jacket with a giant D at heart or in various knits and knee-length shorts offer an alternative to the Oblique suiting made with Scott’s style blessings. The Dior logo from the 1960s becomes a new graphic logo canvas on sneakers and the new double Saddle Bag with a stirrup handle hooking the two sides together.
That spring summer 2022 show is also a spotlight on new design elements, the silhouette of the suit, now softer in more fluid materials.
In the show, the range of clothes repeated itself into groupings only the colors, the fabrics, and the decorations separated one group from another. The series of black looks that opened the show became the four pink looks became the acid green looks became the chocolate looks finally became the white looks at the end.
The collection focuses on gen-z style, makes it a slightly youthful direction with layering, paintwork, and catchwords a key look to lure youngs. The tops and shirt came with fluid lightweight fabric in prints inspired by the artists Peter Doig, Raymond Pettibon, and Daniel Arsham.
Phipps S/S 2022- punky and masculine
Key Direction- It is a punky and masculine collection. The styles extend from denim, track pants, bomber jackets to layered t-shirt styles.
Key Item- cotton print cargo pants with black nylon knee patches, print pants with nylon drawstrings leg bottom, or colorful nylon blouson and matching pants. Denim came in raw edges, dual-tone sleeveless denim shirts, and jackets with creative patching like playful smiley badges, pins. Suits were in large utilitarian patch pockets.
Theme- the designer revealed his spring collection with a film titled ‘It Stars Now.’
This spring 2022 collection explores masculinity through a short flick extended reality film, an altered AR reality from cave to space station.
This season, Phipps is adamant about adding technical elements to his range, including cotton print cargo pants with black nylon knee patches, print pants with nylon drawstrings leg bottom, or colorful nylon blouson and matching pants. Motor cross imagery graces tee shirts.
A green football pullover with shimmering gems team number paired with a dyed cotton wrap skirt questions the subtleties of the classical archetypes of rigid masculinity say male representations in sports.
This spring-summer 2022 collection has plenty of wearable clothes with even a touch of tailoring in the blue pinstripe single breast suit adorned with large utilitarian patch pockets and shoulder and side protective paddings. It also introduces womenswear that follows the direction of its male counterparts.
Burberry Spring 2022 Men's Fashion- New Sexuality
Key Direction- The trench coat belt serves as multiple side decorations on a beige trench with an enlarged cape collar, the new suit shape is a boxy single breast jacket and cigarette pants or two tones of peach pink and black. Tank top with a square-cut neckline, red and grey oversized graphic big tee shirts, or even a black sculpted vest worn outside a light pink sleeveless coat, men Nose ring
Key Theme- Redefining the sexuality
Key item- Layered shirt and top combinations.
The collection at the Burberry show is redefining human nature for the desire for sensuality. The styles shown are an expression of power and beauty that evokes youth daring attitude towards the sense of fluidity and sexuality.
There is a strong feeling of unity and individuality – encouraging and uplifting each other to express ourselves freely. It’s very raw energy that’s infectious, exciting, and full of life. Like an awakening,” Riccardo Tisci, the chief creative officer of Burberry, said of his men’s spring taped show presented for the first time on the official Paris calendar.
Shot at Millenium Mills in Royal Victoria Docks in East London, the men’s collection is designed to express the new sense of individuality – well, in this case, it utterly means that sexuality has returned to the forefront and in the sunlight rather than the darker romanticism of yesteryears.
The bare shoulders and the whole arms are the following new erotic zones as sleeves sliced off from camel classic Burberry trenches in the creative director’s most frontal deconstruction of this heritage British brand.
None of the clothes except for short sleeve tee-shirt have any sleeves at all, a powerful design statement that culminated with the black sleeveless trench with cropped midriff tank and black underwear briefs.
The complete collection represented in the taped film reeks of overt sexuality, the kind of hardcore sensuality so central to Tisci’s menswear aesthetics. Now, the designer is applying this ethos full-on scale to his Burberry collection.
Tisci sliced off the sleeves of the hard shell of the Burberry trench, showing off the whole length of the arms and the shoulders to reveal the soft skins are coming out prominently off the coat intended to protect.
The styles of the clothes are soft and relaxed rather than tightly fitted, giving enough room to visualize the body underneath. A pink sleeveless one-button single breast jacket or a black double breast rectangular cut coat hovers over the body, and tailored pants show off the legs’ contours.
The trench coat belt takes on different functions, now serving as multiple side decorations on a beige trench with an enlarged cape collar, a new garment accessory. The new suit shape is a boxy single breast jacket and cigarette pants or two tones of peach pink and black.
The Bambi prints from Fall 2013 or the Rottweilers for Fall 2011 now find new homes here with red and grey oversized graphic big tee shirts or even a black sculpted vest worn outside a light pink sleeveless coat.
The nose ring from Fall 2012 is back to this time, matching with multiple earrings that appeared in plastic and metal material. The idea is to make it a little punky for the youth market.
One of Tisci’s primary inspirations at Burberry is to deliver collections in tune with the changing attitudes of the young generations. That means making the types of clothes that are in sync with how youngs like to dress and using these Burberry clothes as the language to reach these young consumers. But this also means creating a desire for clothes, especially these clothes.
Hermes S/S 2022- Outdoor spirit
Key Directions- Free outdoor look, rope tie belts, paperweight fabrics for the shirt, tapered leg trousers, canvas coat with leaf green leather insets, a polo shirt in green floral puzzle motif, and dark brown cotton loose Bermuda shorts.
Key Items- A light green zipper parka and khaki cotton pants, a camel hooded cashmere zipper ‘sweatshirt,’ a khaki knit elbow sleeve polo and brown pleated pants, or a wool cardigan in hues of violet and aqua blue hand dye and cotton fitted pants, reversible parkas
Key theme- Free outdoor spirit
According to the Véronique Nichanian, the men’s artistic director. “The collection is an expression of grace, fluidity, and the shifting nature of our lives. It also has a touch of the spirit of sailing as well, as a response to our need to get away. The collection encourages people to get out and roam. We attempted to hone a freer, somewhat looser discourse,”
The layered prints apart, there were glimpses of the natural in abstracted intarsia daisy relief knitwear, fierce eruptions of color in dégradé orange and pink cashmere sweaters, and softer interludes that included a sail-stitched shirt and Bermuda ensemble in blushy pink lambskin.
Connecting to that gentlest breeze of a theme, sailing, the belts were fashioned from rope and many of the bags were cut in canvas as well as leather.
The design thinking evolves into the reality of a practical and elegant collection. The show began with a brownish water-repellent technical canvas coat with leaf green leather insets, a polo shirt in green floral puzzle motif, and dark brown cotton loose Bermuda shorts.
This spring show continues the design shift into the more casual wear that Nichanian has inspired her Hermès menswear in more than a decade, foreseeing the change away from suiting and from a sense of formality.
A light green zipper parka and khaki cotton pants, a camel hooded cashmere zipper ‘sweatshirt,’ a khaki knit elbow sleeve polo and brown pleated pants, or a wool cardigan in hues of violet and aqua blue hand dye and cotton fitted pants indicate the kinds of clothes men would embrace next summer.
A pale pink short sleeve shirt has the line stitching mimicking the rope lines of sailing boats – part of the idea of freedom and movement. Black leather and canvas parka are fully reversible, as are many of the outerwear pieces. A tan single breast pantsuit has a jacket with double panel linen.
Tailoring, in this shift to relaxed dressing, remains. However, Nichanian approached the constructions of the jackets with the absolute lightness, transforming a black slim single breast pleated pantsuit made with the delicate and thin gabardine wool into a pajama suit rather than a rigid business suit.
Elsewhere, a white 3-buttons jacket over a khaki polo and chocolate cotton pants looks as light as a regular cotton shirt. The heritage Mors et Gourmettes prints appear on a reversible grey and green cotton pullover and the Quadrige motif.
“The collection features rather neutral colors: hemp, algae, chocolate upon which stronger, more tender tones blossom, mingling here and there as if faded by the sun. Large flowers appear; colors burst into bright yellow, lettuce green. I also wanted to explore the legacy of certain in-house prints reinterpreted with new
techniques — mesh, for example,” Nichanian said of the muted monochrome feel throughout the show interrupted here and there with intense graphics on a wool knit sweater.
Zippers are seen everywhere in Hermès collection, closing the patch pockets on a black jacket or allowing multiple openings on a green hooded parka with vertical front pocket zippers. The multiple steel zippers on this anorak look so inconsequential enough not to warrant a second glance.
But it was Émile Hermès, the grandson of the founder, who brought the zippers back from a visit to the U.S. after WWI. He obtained an exclusive use for this useful device used mainly for military and industrial purposes into bags then into clothes. The fusion of innovation with utilitarian purpose is central to enhancing functionalities and adding that invisible allure to the products.
Dries Van Noten S/S 2022- We want to be free
Theme- We want to be free to do what we want to do.
Collection Direction- it was a fluid, relaxed and energetic look. The prints were from the paintings of Rubens, notably ‘The Lion Hunt, 1642’ and ‘A Wagon Fording a Stream, 1638’ and Breugel ‘The Temptation of Saint Anthony, 1556.’ Shirts are oversized, Jackets are either fitted like the Maoist shirt collar single breast.
Van Noten said “Lockdown was hard on all of us and especially when I started to design this collection with my team as it was very restrictive and frustrating. We all yearned for a time when our lives were freer.
We found ourselves almost bursting out and going through photos on our phones, needing to relive memories of moments when life was carefree and sociability possible.
And so, the idea was born. Bring these moments to life again by wearing them. Anticipate the future we will all certainly enjoy together again by celebrating such moments lived now!”
This personal touch allows for a very private spring collection, comprising principally Van Noten’s signature looks reimagined into 56 styles.
In addition, the Plantin-Moretus Museum permitted to use several prints from the paintings of Rubens, notably ‘The Lion Hunt, 1642’ and ‘A Wagon Fording a Stream, 1638’ and Breugel ‘The Temptation of Saint Anthony, 1556.’
The notion of comfort comes foremost with relaxed volume in the parkas, trenches, and suiting with elongated sleeves. Shorts and pants have an apron panel added to the front worn with a long knit stripes tunic.
Jackets are either fitted like the Maoist shirt collar single breast or with broad shoulders like a single tan breast paired with a pink shirt and camouflage pants. An oversized patch pocket light purple long sleeve shirt and long-short suggest a new summer suit version.