Milan fashion week AW 2022 Color, Key Item and trend analysis
Most of the designers at the Milan AW 2022 fashion week continue their spring-summer 22 style direction—this is why there was a lot of Boho inspiration witnessed in the most popular designer's collection like Dsquared2, Etro, Ports-1961, and many others.
The major direction all the designers are pushing at the show is to Go, explore the world, enjoy and romance.
Sexuality and women empowerment is now interconnected as we have seen in Versaces's corset-inspired tops and dresses. Versace's design direction continues the tradition of erotic poisonous women in the modern context.
For AW2022 style elements are somewhat significantly skin exposure on the waist, cleavage, and shoulders through the creative cutouts trend. Instead of falling into the masculinity trap that once was the designers' focus on pushing women fashions in the high padded shoulder, boxy suits established women's authority in the men's world.
Bra top continues to dominate yet another season as designers are focusing on consumer's need for erotic and romantic side of their character. Designers understand bra tops are the perfect choice in youth market, carried with skirt and trouser.
Theme- Tough cool-girl aesthetic, youthful flirtiness
Key Items- ruffles and frills, wavy layered skirts, double-breasted jackets
For the fall 2022 collection from Ports's creative director, Karl presented another fresh and youthful look for the brand and its long-established roots of refinement.
AW 2022 collection is all about a young, tough cool-girl aesthetic, and making women look young and a school-girl-like attitude is getting very important for the brand's success as forecasted in our Consumer forecast 2022/23.
This season we noticed Templer successfully blended youthful flirtiness a more maturely sensual sensibility, as well as a classic romanticism into the AW 2022 collections.
There was also a carefree cuteness of short, wavy layered skirts (which felt like development on last season’s frequent tennis skirts) was counterbalanced by the serious tailoring of blazers and double-breasted jackets.
While high-platform, high-knee boots blended equestrian pomp with an urban edge.
The ruffles and frills of these many skirts echoed throughout much of the collection in lace detailing, like ruffled collars and trims, and even showed up in some kooky knitwear.
Dsquared2- Young Boho
Seasonal Theme—Young Bohemian traveler
Key Item- Cropped sweaters, sheath dresses, Padded elongated jackets
Key Detailing- A lot of Layering with jackets and sweaters, and skirts were worn over trousers.
Important Prints- oversized paisleys and 50s geometrics
As typical, Dsquared is known for its young and activist kind of attitude expressed in the styles season over season. From the last two seasons, we observed grunge and playfulness remained the main themes in their previous compilations.
This AW 2022s first silhouette and every piece played right into the mood of the moment – the designers captured the young Bohemian traveler attitudes – in a beautiful, cohesive collection”
The extensive wardrobe for her journey was rich in textures and prints – texture being an essential ingredient of many collections this week.
The designers blended textural surfaces in remarkable tactile contrasts. Smooth, hairy, puffed, leathered, weathered”
In Dsquared Young bohemian outlook at the runway, the silhouettes were not flung together but more cleverly conveyed with things that lovingly played together.
The Dsquared collection is too much of layering, as seen Cropped sweaters were layered over tunics, then layered over printed sheath dresses, and worn with the warmest looking sheepskin boots. Lofty textures came in an oversized shawl that nonchalantly wrapped and draped over shoulders, worn with easy louche velvet trousers; the softness of both spelled immediate warmth.
Liberal layers continued in fabulous mixes of print and pattern – oversized paisleys and 50s geometrics – worn over denim pieces that were either faded, patched, or pieced. Outerwear ( that the brothers do so well) is reimagined in large colorful checks, making for that perfect layering piece.
Padded elongated jackets – that are continuing to have a moment were layered over generously cut trousers or came in abbreviated layering pieces that kept both neck and arms warm. Totes, too, did not escape the quilting phenomena seen in generous proportions that would carry a designer sleeping bag. 4
Within these expansive and layered silhouettes came an assortment of playful yet smart utilitarian details”
– Mark Wittmer
As for the accessories, so many covetable pieces were on offer. Take the chunky amber bead pendant – it could have come from anywhere – the Baltic through to Madagascar and beyond.
Either way, it would no doubt tell a story of enigmatic travels and meetings with the extraordinary, as were the intricate silver bracelets and necklaces that further added to this collection’s charm and expressive nature”
Boots were equally comfy, riding up to the knee and wrapped in bands of soft suede.
For the Dsquared's AW 2022 the Padded elongated jackets are continuing to have a moment, were layered over generously cut trousers, or came in abbreviated layering pieces that kept both neck and arms warm.
For the bags category, we saw totes had quilting phenomena witnessed in generous balances that would carry designer sleeping bags.
Etro- Redefined Modern hippy
Seasonal Theme—free-spirited, military
Key Item- velvet trouser suit, military-style coat,
Important Prints- oversized paisleys and 50s geometrics
This season, all we are witnessing is too much skin, gothic romance, activism, and a recurring boho theme for many brands as it was for S/S 22.
Like Dsquared's collection Veronica Etro has risen to the occasion, throwing herself into updating collections with a more youthful, more fluid strategy.
“Her aesthetic is not to lose the heritage of the free-spirited silhouettes and its precious blend of diverse prints, but rather to reimagine its offering and make it relevant to today’s world.”
“A/W 22 embraces the rich heritage of the bran’s DNA and weaves it through pieces that are modern and relevant”.
Denim at Etro is quite amazing and its unique shape took inspiration from Etro's boho girl's easygoing having high waist, and bottom tied with big boxy pockets are quite commercial for the AW 2022 season.
“Take the military-styled coat that came with beautifully embroidered sleeves or the oversized intarsias, elongated, fluid with fringing dancing around the ankles of fabulous suede flat boots”.
Shawls carefully crafted and crocheted together at the seams were proposed instead of authentic outerwear pieces. Dresses were spotted in knitted and textural, soft to the touch, and there were patches and geometric shapes cleverly pieced together to provide a sexiness that permeated every silhouette.
For the season’s sartorial cuts – a sumptuous velvet trouser suit that spotted in deep burgundy caught the light and shimmered as it moved around the body –
The color palette spotted very rich and came in complementary tones of chocolate, ivory, khaki, and orange, while “shimmering notes of silver, peacock blue, and burgundy” drenched liquid evening pieces that are perfect for those candlelit nights.
The eclecticism was not gone, but there was a free, youthful approach to this season.
Bottega Veneta- Free and Sensual
Bottega Venetta added a lot of effort into making her style look amazingly youthful and energetic through a simple vest top over the plain jeans or an oversized striped shirt ending the look with high neck leather glossy shoes.
One of the significant highlights of Bottega's AW show is her Footwear and bags. Shoes and basket Bags are intricately interwoven in layers demonstrating the traditional Italian materials and technique.
The leather skirts and dresses, the sway of multi strands of leather at the hemline was as provocative as they were beautiful and provided a stunning textural addition to the feminine shapes – focus to the waist exaggerated by the fullness in the skirt.
Micro pleats on the maxi dresses and skirts got spotted in layers are standout detailing delivered the overall look quite feminine and sophisticated. Also, the few gorgeous slip dresses spotted in sequin embellishment on the transparent lace material harbored with the thigh-high silvery metallic shoes presented a quite sensual take targetting the young consumers.
The collection itself was permeated with a true sense of the everyday peppered with poignant materials and techniques, things that could only be realized through the traditional craft of Italian artisans.”
The first silhouette, a simple top worn with denim jeans, was printed nu-buck – so incredibly easy-to-wear, but the cut made the shape new and highly covetable.
Silhouettes were cut in rigid materials that were given ultra-lightness, fullness, movement, and texture.
Take the peacoat, for instance, crafted with a voluminous shape at the back but at the front of the garment, it came streamlined to provide a perfect sensual form that was neither bulky nor obtuse”
The basted seams, the perfect collars, everything cut in ideal proportion: no frivolity here, just pure Italian craftsmanship at its very best.
Wool flannels and color flecked herringbones, through to printed textural pieces or finely pleated pieces were worn with knitted items reminiscent of cherished childhood (vintage) items.
The patched and pieced knitted dresses, although at first sight, reminded me of some early Etro shapes, provided a lovely diversion in a sea of monochromatic silhouettes.
As for the accessories, The house codes were realized in each bag and every shoe and boot.
Each one was a unique work of art, whether they came handwoven in delicate strips of fine leather or cut in shining metallics. One way or another, these will be the new IT bags and shoes of 2022!”
Versace- sexual liberation
Theme- feminine power and sexual liberation, femme Fatales
Key Item- 90’s hip-hop connections with cargo pants and chunky sunglasses, structured Corset Tops, and dresses.
Print- labyrinth print, banker stripes, or houndstooth.
Versace's one of the most outstanding collections of the season uniquely presented sexuality- it is a modern take of the traditional tailoring to deliver the empowered women yet a very feminine side.
The designer for the AW 2022 collection at Milan catwalk also explored structured corset tops and dresses, a traditional technique that’s having a modern appeal, with its historical essence of overpowering restriction being subverted for feminine power and sexual liberation.
Indeed, the femme Fatales strutting the catwalk exuded a deadly sense of poise and confidently restrained sexuality.
The colors at Versace were nearly entirely solid. There are one or two pieces with the familiar labyrinth print, but most of the prints we spotted were long-established sartorial or textile codes, like banker stripes or houndstooth.
When the acidic-bright, head-turning color combinations that we expect from Versace did finally start to step on the runway, it felt as if the show began to lag a bit.
The beating heart of the Versace identity was also present in streetwear moments – Donatella revisited the brand’s 90’s hip-hop connections with cargo pants and chunky sunglasses – and in the jewelry that threaded a focused opulence throughout the collection.
The collection smashed a solid balance of guiding the brand forward in a focused and modern direction, while always staying true to its iconic self.
Red hues are the most prominent