Key Items-- Cocooning camel coats, 80’s leotards, cut-out knitted dresses, and cashmere jackets.

Themes – Optimism

In Michael Kors's New York fashion week NEW YORK FASHION WEEK DATE show it was all about optimism and getting ready to bring things normal 

This tight, solid-colored color palette defined the show, which was as cool as it was commercial, Kors striking the perfect balance between the two.

Girls moved from day to evening in cocooning camel coats, 80’s leotards, cut-out knitted dresses, and cashmere jackets, falling off the shoulder just so.

Kors, unlike many designers who have presented evening styles, believing it will be a popular choice, adds ease and comfort to looks glamorously by bringing a few sequined evening dresses and tops.

Coats were a stand-out throughout the catwalk. In this chilly New York climate, you can see why many designers make this category essential for the season. We see several pieces lifted in the high street stores, which is part of the parcel of putting forth such everyday, translatable designs on the runway. 

Key Items-- tailored trousers, drop-shoulder overcoats, obi-leather belting

Themes- Nationalism

Burch explored the concept of the New York identity via style, color, form, and geometry, with classic American sportswear being the key direction as seen during the show.

The designer balanced authentic American aesthetics with contemporaneous taste and social context.

This girl wants to wear her damn sweats but throw a little sass into the mix. There was newfound creativity in her work that elevated her collection. Print, namely, came layered up against tailored trousers, feeling a little Prada-esque if you will.

Relaxed handwriting informed the curved silhouettes of blazers, bombers, drop-shoulder overcoats, and even the ovoid line of trousers and tops nipped in at the waist with obi-leather belting which enhanced looks with a feminine structure. The easy lines lent well for layering.

Overall, we can define Burch collection was a mix of sporty and classic sartorial attitude.

Key Items-- oversized baggy tees with cartoon prints, giant leather jackets

Themes- American scene, nostalgic, upbeat, optimistic

Like for the S/S 2022 collection, the Coach yet again continues the signature 90's oversized t-shirts and baggy shorts targeted to youth and dominating street consumer attitudes.
Honestly, that was against the existing offering at the catwalk, the Coach knew his buyers are seeking adventure and youthfulness than the sophistication and matured look of evening wear is better than the competitors.
 
Designer Stefan Beckham smeared a typically American scene: picket fences, children playing on their bicycles, a housewife walking her pet dog.

Like many small towns in America, everything was not as it seemed. As the sunset on the picturesque neighborhood of ‘Coachville’ USA, the youth emerged from the cracks, climbing out of their bedroom windows and onto the runway one by one, in clothes made for mischief that explored the many decades of Coach’s heritage.

There were the ’50s, in sweet A-line style dresses and car coats with painterly florals and giant houndstooth checks, paired with T-bar shoes and square frame sunnies. Giant, cozy shearling jackets were re-imagined in oversize proportions, distinguished with corduroy flares and barely there bralettes.
There was a certain satire amongst a series of 40’s dolly-like crochet and floral appliqué dresses juxtaposed with leather chokers, baseball caps, and stomping biker boots.

Perhaps these girls were off for a night at ‘The Coach,’ the local neighborhood bar whose logo features a giant bear in a leather harness. The boys were definitely en route; clad in three-piece leathers and DIY jewelry, a knowing glimmer in their eye, off to ‘write a new love story,’ as the show notes put it – perhaps more delicately than I could!

Elsewhere, the 90’s called in oversized baggy tees with cartoon prints, served up with giant leather jackets laden with graffiti. You can imagine these kids in their bedrooms and backyards, DIYing a thrifted jacket and making their own jewelry out of trinkets from a yard sale.

It was nostalgic, upbeat, optimistic, and endearing. Coach champions this kind of sentiment and creativity: today, their foundation donated to Free Arts NYC, which empowers underserved youths through arts and mentoring programs to develop their creativity and confidence.  

They know that their customers want exclusive products and want them quickly (a limited edition number of archival 1964 model bags were made available post-show).

That’s what made this collection more than just a throwback or a nod to retro tropes that can often veer out of touch with today.

Key Items-- long coats, fur-lined jackets, cropped sailor knits and floor sweeping skirts,

Themes- Mystery and Darkness, Hippy, Bohemé, Gypsette

the central theme of the show was pinned on that very narrative. “I want this collection to not only evoke the intrepid and adventurous spirit, but also mystery and darkness,” said the designer of his latest outing, which was as sizable as it was varied, featuring looks that spanned everything from heavy winter coats to crochet dresses and crop tops.

The collection began its journey in deepest winter, layered up to the nines with long coats, fur-lined jackets, cropped sailor knits and floor sweeping skirts, decorated with dancing gypsette belts for the brand’s bohemé spin.

These moved from true bohemian handkerchief styles, abundant with tie-dye and laden with embroidery, whipstitching and sea-traveler’s treasures, to a beautiful pleated leather tunic that appeared to fold around the body like origami.

Two-piece knits were a welcome introduction throughout; when the journey’s over, those pieces will look just as well thrown together with jeans or sweatpants – a surefire sign of more everyday items entering the designer’s vernacular.

Key Items-- Tent-shaped frock, fluffy Black and white sweater, high ruffled neckline

Prints—folkloric, African abstract prints

Themes—Bohemian

There’s a comfort and an excitement to  seasonality with Johnson’s collection, there’s no doubt you’re looking at fall.

A collared duster coat in shades of black, white, and yellow. A yellow printed “Heidi” dress, a rich tent-shaped frock with great ballooning sleeves and high ruffled neckline, were feminine and nostalgic.

Autumnal hues of russet, aged yellows, shades of brown and black and white prints telegraph the time of year. And while many a look could do double duty, there’s no denying this bonus that the clothes offer.

Long sleeve jackets paired with skirts with long tablecloth hems, an adorable fluffy Black and white sweater were two standouts as were the many patterned jackets layered over contrast- printed dresses or skirts.

Print had a folkloric theme or sometimes they combined a Seventies vibe with African abstract prints.

Johnson’s pleasing pattern mixes and her flair for the bohemian are notable.  Pieces are thoughtfully designed and Johnson’s imagination skillfully combines fun and sophistication in equal measure.

Key Items-- mini dresses and grand frocks, voluminous skirts.

Themes-Whimsy

Key Prints—Tie and Dye

Compared to the previous season, it was a glamorous take by Wu, a different style that we used to witness from him. There was a big bow tie, voluminous hem dresses, skirts, and erotic corset bra top completed the collection.
 
According to the designer, “They want glamour,” The more glamour, the better. Wu did with styles that shimmered with excitement and whimsy.

Among the favorites were a sweeping magenta dress, a chic little belted skirt suit, and a mustard yellow strapless look with a high-low hem and a supersized bow In fact, it was hard to look at the gigantic bows Wu placed on bodices, and not smile.

Volume in pert mini dresses and grand frocks conveyed the spirit of splendor he was after.

Wu’s been thinking plants and vintage magazines.
Though less patterned than some past collections, flowers were no less significant. Lush shades of cerise pink, yellow, and orange were taken from the unusual coloring of poppies displayed as part of the runway backdrop.

There were dresses in these hues, but sometimes it was just a killer shoe – a pump in an extraordinary tangerine like the poppies cascading on the blossoming white vines on display.