The theme of the spring show, meanwhile, was actually tennis, with a couple of Plein Sport-clad players batting a ball about as the models sauntered by.

The look was vintage-influenced, but using hi-tech materials, with Björn Borg and John McEnroe mentioned as references in the show notes. Training jackets carried piping details and old school cardigans were edged with graphic contrast lines, within the mix baseball jackets, polos with exaggerated V-shaped prints and color-blocked tracksuits. The men’s palette went from a mix of white and tennis-court green to a black, white and silver section with a tougher, more street attitude

The women’s offer, with the models channeling a young Billie Jean King as per the notes, included white pink and silver athletic bodysuits, track pants with neon side stripes that ended infringing and swimwear. The looks came accessorized with visors, headbands and wayward piled up hairdos resembling Barbie on a bad hair day.

Everything revolved around the idea of blending a tennis mood with streetwear and tailoring,” said the designer, who focused on high-tech, advanced constructions and materials defining the lineup. “Performance and comfort are key for contemporary customers.” Sartori mainly worked a vertical, layered silhouette and focused on a color palette of fresh white, pale pink, aqua green and light gray, with pops of navy, red and yellow.

The versatile wardrobe, which was injected with a dynamic, energetic feel, blended sporty accents, and street references. Athletic leggings with the Z Zegna logo were worn under relaxed shorts and rounded bomber jackets, while high-end nylon hoods were layered under deconstructed yet impeccable suits. Innovative technical materials were crafted for lightweight joggers with sporty drawstrings and elastic cuffs and a new acetate was used for color-blocked tracksuits injected with a retro-inspired feel.

energy and positive attitude were reflected in the collection, which was injected with a dynamic attitude. The designers reworked a military theme that was interestingly balanced with more feminine and soft lingerie elements. Both in the men’s and women’s looks, cargo pants, field jackets, and bombers — with maxi utility pockets, zippers and patchwork inserts — were combined with lightweight tops and bustier vests punctuated with corsetry details. Silk and nylon were mixed and matched on ruffled mini dresses, while deconstructed featherweight men’s knit tops were embellished with graphic taping.

Classic military canvas cotton was matched with safety green inserts, as well as rich brocade fabrics, which elevated the functional feel of the utilitarian designs. In addition, bold color-blocking gave a geometric feel to the Nineties baggy pants and voluminous zippered jackets injected with a techno music-inspired mood.

Victorian influences clashed with saloon-inspired references in the charming maxi dresses crafted from lightweight silk. They were perfect for Dsquared2’s romantic warriors, hiding a party girl heart.

Risso took inspiration from several sports — from baseball and rugby to basketball and swimming’s, for both the silhouettes and the patterns of his relaxed designs infused with an individual street attitude. Baggy shorts, striped T-shirts, tank tops, fluid pants and slouchy shirts were printed in a variety of patterns, from rugby stripes and checks to multi-striped motifs overprinted with images by artists Betsey Podlach and Florian Hetz. Tailored blazers and suits were worked in oversized, misproportioned shapes while fuzzy mohair was unexpectedly crafted into soft separates. Everything had a lived-in, eclectic feeling, which enabled Risso’s naïf effort to have a real charm.

Armani focused on his signature super-soft constructions, from gaucho-style oversize pants worn with stitched leather waistcoats over long-sleeved T-shirts to suede safari jackets, printed silk pajamas with digitalized ikat-style prints and those double-breasted jackets, most with peak lapels and all in the relaxed silhouette the designer made iconic.

Versace’s collection was confident, too, and spoke to myriad men — the skater, the boardroom guy, the hippie romantic and the fashionista. She also showcased her women’s resort 2019, which spoke to the men’s wear in so many ways. “It’s the same person,” said the designer, who stacked her runway with famous faces including Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner.

Fresh feeling and filled with psychedelic colors and swirling patterns, the collection spanned the generations and mixed up old and new house codes. Men wore soft, baggy jeans with wide-shouldered gray pinstripe suit jackets or overcoats right out of the Eighties, while the suits themselves were worn with roomy, untucked shirts. Other tops were Seventies-era snug and covered in a bright flower print on a black background. The ditsy print also stretched to short, chunky knits.