The Acne studio men had clear idea to re-design the men’s formal ensemble inspired from the 80’s formal tribe with tweaks, possible from neoprene blend into fabrics.
Modern and clean silhouette defines the Acne studio’s men’s wear Fall/winter 2017 collection. The clean, simple and edgy a crafted styling
The result was a collection walked by its models onto a tiled table that was presumably once used as a slab for cadavers under study by aspiring French doctors. It consisted of some almost parodic ensembles of ’80s formal tribes subjected to the swollen-Keanu treatment.
The designer blended fabrics with Neoprene to create crafted style so that it could mold the silhouettes based on design’s demand — think a double-breasted scuba suit in a wool pinstripe or Prince of Wales check — with this idea of muffling out the noise. Some of the accessories and knitwear had even been sprayed with the flock to mattify the surface.
For the Swedish label’s complete presentation, they take a bit of retro sophistication and interpreted it for what the modern dandy should look like. Suiting is quite precise as we get tailored looks that are just impeccable at first glance.
Acne’s Studio Men ensembles
The first look was a gray pinstripe peak lapelled jacket ballooned by the neoprene within, to excessive proportions, worn over incongruously skinny pants and wedge sneakers whose pastel paneling complemented the teal body of the white collared shirt above.
A pink cashmere sweater under a mint high-necked fine gauge knit above some wide but tapering blue pants, held fast by a felted belt-suspender combo, looked very back-then Giorgio Armani.
The embroidered hounds on a pale green knitted zipped shirt with an oversize collar were an Acne Studios-field take on Brooks Brothers prep. And the swollen camel coat over another camel coat and camel zip-up looked like a loving but irreverent re-rendering of Max Mara, perhaps the greatest brand in all of the fashion that should make menswear and doesn’t.
There is no belittling meant in mentioning these other designers, by the way: Johansson was riffing on a decade whose style they were fundamental in shaping; seeing them here so clearly just meant he was getting it right.
There’s also tactile outerwear that gives new meaning to the notion of being stylishly covered for the cooler weather. As a whole, the range is what you would expect from a brand that is renowned for its elevated choices in design — everything here is clean and practically flawless, which is a nice contrast to a lot of the mixed-and-flipped “streetwear” that’s taking over some of the other collections appearing on the runway.